Waterproof Kayak Battery Box Mods & Upgrades

This article illustrates how to modify and wire a 12V plug port and a USB receptacle for charging electronic devices such as cell phones and running GoPro’s with out an internal battery for an all day charge. Using the existing waterproof battery box from a previous article we will first replace the 12V 12 aH Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Battery. See SLA or LFP Accessory Battery for your Kayak write up for the differences in batteries and pros/cons of both. I have opted to now use a LFP battery for its long list of great qualities.

Products & materials you will need.

• About two feet each red & black of 16ga shielded copper electrical wire
• (10) Spade Connectors (Blue 14 – 16ga)
• (1) 3 Way Female Double Male Spade Connector
• (2) Inline Fuse Holder w/ 16ga wire
• (2) 3 – 5 amp fuses (Most fish finder electronics recommend 3 amp)
• (1) 12V Marine Power Outlet
• (1) 12V Double USB Receptacle
• (1) Hopkins 2 pole plug (For Fish Finder Connection)
• (1) On Off Switch (I used a stainless steel product to last with the salt water)
• (3) Butt Connectors

Wiring Diagram 8X11

Instructions:

• First thing you will do is remove the existing battery and all of the wiring in the box. We are going to replace everything inside. Keep the cable gland as it will be reused.
• Using a hole saw drill match up the diameter to the outside of the hole saw with the two receptacles. Try to keep the holes even and equal distance apart for aesthetic reasons. After drilling the holes trim the excess from the edge of the holes. Set the receptacles and tighten the collar down.
• Drill a hole using a hole saw that matches the diameter of the switch in your desired location. Make sure the internal protrusion will not interfere with the battery or the 12V receptacles. Install the switch.
• Now we will splice 2 wires together to connect the negative side and the positive sides of the receptacles together. Make one for each RED and BLACK.
• Connect the spade connectors to the correct terminals on the receptacles + with + and – with -.

• Using a butt connector connect the RED + wire from the Fish Finder Plug to one inline fuse.
• Using the 3 Way Female to 2 Male connector connect the Two Inline Fuses to the Male ends and the White 12V Positive from the switch with a male spade to the female end on the 3 way its good to tape this connection with electrical tape or purchase a insulated connector.
• Connect the Red + wire from the switch using a female spade connector to the battery.
• Connect the BLACK – wires by crimping on a female spade connector from the 12V receptacles, the 12V Fish Finder connection and the black wire from the switch together. Simply twist the (3) wires together feed into the hole on the connector and crimp using the crimping tool.
• Then Connect the Female Spade with the (3) black wires to the – Negative side of the battery.

Upon Completion:

Test by pressing the switch to the ON position. The LED Indicator should light up. Test all receptacles and that the fish finder powers up. You now have a portable waterproof kayak battery box with the option to run additional lighting on your kayak, Charge electronics, and run cameras VIA USB power.

This concludes the Kayak Battery Box modifications & Upgrades article. Please leave comments on your thoughts!

Camera Float Life Proof Phone Case Tether

So you purchased a Life Proof case for your phone Now its protected and waterproof! Only problem if you drop it overboard it will sink like a rock. I came up with a simple solution the use of a GoPro tether and a camera float.

GoPro has a 3M sticky back tether product used to tether a GoPro to helmets and surf boards and such. The 3M adhesive is very sticky and will just about stick to anything.

How to install. Simply stick the tether to the back of your phone. In an area that will not interfere with phone mounts. After this installation the phone will not sit flat but its better than loosing it.

You can find the GoPro Tether on Ebay!

Also find the Floating Camera Strap Here!

The Jackson Kayak Big Rig due to its width a full length anchor trolley will ride up the side of the rod trough. This article explains the benefits and how to install a Split Anchor Trolley System on the Big Rig.

The definition of an anchor trolley is a loop of rope mounted to a kayak via two points which allows control of its anchoring point from the seated position. Essentially functions like a clothes line.

A split anchor trolley system is actually composed of two separate anchor trolleys. One located on the starboard side and the other located on the port side. One from the seated position to the bow and the other from the seated position to the stern.

The benefits of the split anchor trolley set up are the ability to anchor from two points at one time eliminating spinning of the kayak. Other benefits include a shorter loop is less invasive.

Things you will need:

• 4 Pulleys Stainless Steel
• 1/8″ bungee – Color of choice
• at least 30 feet of reflective 5/32″ poly rope or para chord
• 1 Pad Eye
• 2 SealectDesigns Deck Fitting – Double Loop
• 2 Nuts bolts and rubber washers.
• (2) 1 1/4″ Nylon Rings
• 2 Carabiner’s with eyes

DIY Install:

This install is currently set up for Stake Out Poles. For a bottom hook anchor system you will need additional cleats not mentioned int his article.

You will need to decide which side you would like the trolley to be on. Either left on the bow and right on the stern or right on the bow and left on the stern.

The front trolley will require drilling of a deck loop.I installed mine just under  the front of the rod tip protector. Previously using the screw in the front of the rod tip protector proved not to work correctly. The line rode up the side of the boat. Using the deck loop corrected the problem. To install that you will need to drill and using the 2 stainless bolts neoprene washers and nuts secure it to the boat.

To install the Sealect Designs Double Deck fitting simply remove the screw of the side handle at the center of the kayak (near the seating position). Slide the deck fitting and with a little Lok Tite refasten the screw. Do this for leash points as stated in the previous article!  This will allow you to clip the carabiner. The other side is for leashing rods and gear.

Using the shock cord about 12″ for each pulley tie a double overhand knot after running through he handle deck loops in all four positions. You want 6-10″ of looped shock cord as this will absorb the pull of the anchor.

Once the pulleys are tied in place one to the bow on the Deck Loop with the shock cord. Now run 2 lengths of the the poly rope through the pulleys you want the tag ends to be at the bottom. You will now tie using half hitches to each side of the nylon ring. I like to use the poly rope or para cord with the reflective band weaved in. It adds a length of visibility at night.

Once all ends are tied to the rings burn the ends so the rope does not unravel over time.  The system is now complete. Leave a tag end to adjust in the future as the rope weathers it may become slack. Simply retie. After fishing in salt water do rinse down the systems just to keep them moving through the pulleys and the rope will then last longer.

Tight lines!

Disclaimer:

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