Since the Cuda 14 was released by Jackson Kayak paddlers have expressed that they felt the Smart Track Rudder was too small for the boat. There is now a solution for that.  The SEA-LECT Designs Trucourse Rudder system. The function of the rudder on a kayak is to increase the tracking in windy situations.  As the paddler adjusts the rudder to compensate for the wind keeping the kayak straight will save the paddler energy.

The Jackson Kayak Cuda 14 used in this modification write up had a factory installed Smart Track rudder system at the time of purchase.
It is possible to use the factory installed steering components and line to raise/lower the rudder with a few slight modifications. ThePlasticHull.net  at this time would recommend that you order your kayak from your local Jackson Kayak Dealer without a rudder system installed and that you would do the entire install with SEA-LECT Designs rudder kit following that kits specific manufacturers instructions until and if this rudder system is ever becomes an option from the Jackson Kayak factory. Your local dealer may also have a shop where they may be able to provide the service to install the rudder kit for an additional charge.

This modification will vary from a full kit install being that there was no need to install sliding foot braces steering cables or trim lines plus run all the tubing these cables and lines require to travel through. Merely this was done to see if the system would work on the Cuda 14.

The Diagram to the left shows the location of the factory trim line and then the modified location to work with the SEA-LLECT Designs Rudder.

The new drilled hole is 2 inches from the center line of the edge of the hatch depression to the center line of the drilled hole for the trim line tubing & rope itself. This is only necessary of modifying a Cuda with a factory rudder installed.

Also depicted is the factory installed steering cable and rudder cable. The location of the steering cable does not need to be modified here. Only the connecting hardware needs to be removed. This is done simply by removing the cotter pin pushing the cable inside the mounting bracket and removing the sedge inside. This will free the cable and allow it to be removed.

The SEA-LECT Designs rudder has an innovative way of  fastening the steering cables. Using an Hex Key tool remove 2 screws each to remove the covers on each side. By loosening up the clamp screw and running the steering cable to the center and then to the rear and tightening down just a little bit.  You will need to center the tracks to the rudder to do this slide the tracks even with the track and this will be your center point. Pull the cable through the rudder till taught but not to move the track off center. Then tighten down the clamp screw.

The image above shows the location of the trim line and the new hole drilled along with the 1/4″ wire hanger and stainless steel screw. The existing hole that the trim line penetrated at the stern was just filled with a bead of Lexel. Now to change out the trim line function. Remove the screw at the front of the existing line. If your Cuda has not had a factory installed rudder there should be a plastic screw in this place. Replace this with a screw or if rudder package is installed use the existing screw but add a rigging hook. This will be for the trim line to loop over when the rudder is in the up position. Untie the bungee from the trim line. Now you will pull the trim line to the bow until the rudder is in the up position. This is where you will tie a non slipping loop knot so when looped around the rigging hook the rudder stays in the up position. Now to lower the rudder simply pull the loop off the hook letting it go. The rudder will slide down.

Below is the modified rudder trim control. By releasing the loop from the hook the rudder will go down. By pulling the trim line and hooking the loop the rudder goes up and locks.

The rudder also has an adjustable depth control. You may want to adjust the height when fishing flats and shallow areas then adjust it down for deeper water. Also for best performance the rudder should not be pulled all of the way up and forward. It could cause the rudder to get stuck in the up position. You may want to tie a knot in the trim line at the stern of the kayak to stop the rudder from being pulled too far.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

Nothing lasts forever. The stock tank well bungee is falling apart. The sun and weather degrades the bungee over time. In turn the degrading of the bungee made it become very loose and fragile. Purchased a piece of green shock cord/bungee last year but finally got around to getting it on the Cuda 14 this weekend. Although the green I ordered came in as yellow I didn’t mind at all.  Actually it looks really cool!

I originally purchased 10′ of the bungee shock cord. Used about a foot and a half for my crate project last year.  What i had left was just enough to replace the tank well bungee. I would recommend that you purchase 10 feet for the Cuda. This way you can cut off any excess.  Being that it looks really cool on my next boat i will have to find 3/16″ bungee for the bow in yellow!.

I have to say it does add character.

I do hope it holds up well.

The new Lowrance Elite 5 HDI chart plotter/fish finder’s transducer unfortunately is just too large to be scupper mounted flush on the Cuda. About 1/8″ sticks out on the bottom and i feel this will destroy the transducer over time.

Since this is an HDI unit the transducer needs to be mounted on the exterior of the hull below the waterline. A shoot through hull install with this type of unit will degrade the result of the display. I have two mounting options. One would be the Ram Mounts Transducer flex mount kit. The other being that the Cuda 14 has a removable replaceable skid plate with mounting hardware already molded into the boat. Simply I would have to design a bracket that would mount to the yak via the skid plate and bend up the transom to bolt the transducer through. I think this would eliminate the drag of having a bar and the transducer hanging over the side. Mounted inline with the boats hull it would act as a piece of the hull itself. At least these are my hopes.

Angle Aluminum Stock 1″ x 1/16″ x 36″

I recommend  stainless steel angle but as my choice due to its light weight and non rusting properties in salt water i like to start with aluminum. I also paint it so it is resistant from corroding and pitting. Once the aluminum bracket is fabricated maybe I will make one out of stainless steel. Aluminum is fine due to the trial and error phase of this bracket mount. I am two seasons into my previous scupper mount fabrication where i used aluminum and still see minimal corrosion. The kayak doesn’t sit in the salt water and if its rinsed with fresh water every time it prolongs the life.

Angle alum & Skid Plate

I decided to measure where the bend in the aluminum would be and using a Dremel tool cut of one side off the angle to make it flat.

Bend & Drill to align

I measured the existing skid plate screw holes and drilled appropriately for mounting.

Mounted to Skid Plate for measuring

Once the holes were drilled I mounted the bracket to measure with the transducer the amount of angle needed to mount the skimmer so it was aligned flush with the underside of the hull.

side view mounted to skid plate before cutting

Once i cut the long piece off it looked like this (below)

Transducer Mount after cutting

Transducer Mount after cutting

 Once this was done I aligned the transducer with the bottom of the hull and marked where to drill the hole. Then painted the bracket with black paint to resist the corrosive salt water.

Painted!

Now for mounting!!

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer!

Thats a pretty clean mount! I hope it wil work with loading and unloading the yak on and off my truck. Unfortunatlly it was the best solution but i think it will be fine!

Next will need to run the wiring so i have to figure out how im going to run all of the wire through the hull temporarily for the remainder of the season. These Lowrance wires and plugs are very large and makes the install tough. As in the photos below you can see my existing install using C-Caps. The plug collar is actually larger than the 3/4″ hole drilled here.  I might be temporarily installing through the hatch and then replacing the hatch in the future.  This will give me a chance to hinge the back end of the hatch. At least i can try it once before the final with out worrying about it being pretty..

Existing Hull Pass Through

Existing Hull Pass Through

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.